We've been travelling through the Balkans for the last month and Bosnia was hands down our favourite place. It has more history, great food and just as many waterfalls. The main reason we liked it best is that it's way less busy (looking at you Croatia). The fact that it's way cheaper doesn't hurt it either. Thanks to having visitors, we picked up our travelling pace and happened to create an excellent 6 day itinerary for Bosnia we think is worth sharing.

We started in Sarajevo for 3 nights and 2 full days. On the first day, we did a free walking tour with BH Spirit Tours to learn about the city and pick up a few recommendations. Bosnia has a lot of recent history - recent enough that our tour guide was alive during the war. Hearing about the war from someone in our generation who experienced it was really special.

sarajevo_rose

The Sarajevo Rose is painted around the city to remember lives lost during the siege of Sarajevo. If you know what to look for there are reminders of the war everywhere in an otherwise normal feeling European city.

After the tour, we went to the old town for Bosnian food. We ate Cevapi which is a hand made sausage (kind of like a rolled hamburger) served with onion and delicious bread later on we drank beers at Sarajevska Pivara the local brewery. In the evening, we stopped by Baklava Sarajbosna where they had over 30 different kinds of Baklava for dessert.

We enjoyed our first tour so much that on our second day in Sarajevo we did a more in depth war tour with the same guide and company. The first stop was the Tunnel of Hope built during the siege to supply the city. After the museum, we drove up the hillside for a view of Sarajevo and an afternoon thunderstorm. The visual highlight of the day was our last stop to visit the abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics.

bobsled

It's crazy to compare this to the 1989 track in Calgary that is still in use

From Sarajevo, we rented a car and drove north to Travnik and Jajce (pronounced more like Yahtzee). Our decision to rent a car was mostly for economic reasons with 4 travellers but the driving turned out to be incredibly scenic and worthwhile. In Travnik, we walked around the old fortress and had lunch in a cafe by the river and waterfalls. This would set a new standard for lunch views that would only escalate the rest of our time in Bosnia.

travnik

Looking out over Travnik from the old fortress

We stayed overnight in Jajce and did most of our sightseeing the next morning. We visited the catacombs and walked around the fortress but skipped paying the fee to enter this one. The main attraction in Jajce is the waterfall right in the middle of the town.

jajce-selfie

Lots of things get old when travelling long term but waterfalls are not one of them. I always appreciate a good waterfall

On our way out of town we stopped by Pliva Lakes which turned out to be the best thing we did in Jajce. We followed a Lonely Planet recommendation and went for lunch at Konoba Slapovi. It was the most scenic lunch of our trip.

jajce_lunch

Jen ranked Konoba Slapovi number 1 on her most scenic lunches of all time

From Jajce we drove all the way down to Mostar where we stayed for 2 nights. I definitely levelled up my European driving skills on the way into the old town - the roads were steep, narrow and occasionally just ended. We didn't do too much in the Mostar itself aside from eat, wander the old town and look at the bridge hoping to see someone jump off.

mostar-bridge

Stari Most - the iconic bridge in Mostar

For our full day, we drove from Mostar to the nearby town of Blagaj famous for the Buna Spring. We had drinks on a patio overlooking the spring which would have been super impressive except this type of scenery was becoming the norm for us. After Blagaj, we continued onto the Kravice Waterfalls. We didn't bring bathing suits which was a bit of a mistake as there were lots of people swimming in the falls and it was a very hot day.

blagaj

The River Buna and the town of Blagaj just a short drive from Mostar.

After 2 days in Mostar, we drove back to Sarajevo which was another beautiful drive. Along the way, we stopped in Konjic for lunch, ice cream and a quick leg stretch. Konjic was a cute town with another beautiful bridge.

Our time in Bosnia was brief compared to some other destinations but we packed a lot in. Car travel is a bit of a new thing for us and it worked really well in Bosnia. If you're thinking of visiting the Balkans we can't recommend Bosnia enough!